TIPS

Just because it comes up on your screen real pretty, and it prints to your laser printer or color inkjet just fine --- doesn't always mean that it is going to output correctly from a high-resolution imagesetter or print the same way!

We've assembled a number of useful time-saving tips we think you will find valuable. As always, if you have a question, please feel free to contact us directly!

We have some tips for you from professionals.

Todd Meisler, Film Output Professional

“Running Digital files for film separations or digital printing can be easy or it can be a pain, it all depends on a number of things. 1. How clear the output instructions are. 2. How well the files were built, for ease of output or for ease of design. 3. All fonts must be supplied with files to output. 4. All images must be setup properly, CMYK or Pantone depending on output requirements. 5. All EPS, TIF or other images must be supplied with files to output. 6. Information must be clear, what versions of software the files were created in. Also what type of color proof is the designer supplying, is it accurate? 7. It must also be clear what kind of final proof is necessary to provide to the printer from the final film. 8. Were the files created on PC platform or Macintosh platform? All these items are important to obtain the best output for the least amount of money.”

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Dave Ritchie, Foiling and Embossing Professional

“Foil stamping and embossing are excellent ways to upgrade the look of your printed piece. In order to achieve the desired effect, there needs to be good communication between the designer, printer and stamper. Some things to keep in mind when planning a foil job are:

• Check with the stamper to see where the guide and gripper should be on the pre printed stock. Different foil presses may have different requirements.
• Large solid areas combined with fine intricate areas may need to be run in two passes. The foil formulation needed to run one application may not work on the other.
• If the foil is to stamp over litho, the ink and/or varnish must be wax free (never rubber based.)
• Offset powder must be kept at a minimum when running the litho that will be stamped.
• The only coating that foil will stick to is aqueous. If the piece is to be UV coated, it must be stamped prior to the coating.
• Be aware that when you specify colors other than gold and silver that there are fewer adhesive formulations. Check to see that there is a formulation that is suitable for your application.
• Foiled letterheads that are to be used in a laser printer should be tested prior to running the whole job. Different laser printer models run at various temperatures. None of the manufactures will guarantee that their foil with work 100% of the time.”

Harvey Meyerhoff, Designer

“A word to the “Color-Wise”!
Every designer likes to make mid-course changes in color when in the computer phase of the art. To find the right answer makes it worthwhile. BUT...make sure, before you close that file, that you “discard” ALL non-utilized colors. That reduces the file size, and when multiplied by dozens or hundreds of files, translates into more usable storage.

“Golden Rule” Rule
(Same goes with) “Page Rulers.” Shut them off, also, when closing a file. The space per file is not much to speak of, but keeping a hundred or more rulers on, chews up a few parsecs of storage space.”

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Ralph Seguyan, Bindery Professional

“The printer and/or designer should consider the amount of creep on the signature for booklets of more than 12 pages. Avoid using blue ink, as much as possible, unless with aqueous. Blue ink seems to need more time to dry compared to other colors and it can create marking and offsetting during the bindery operation.”

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Wayne Brown, Marketing & Copy Writing Consultant

“Generally, you should never put a price in a classified ad (on-line or off-line.) Price typically repels responses.”

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Michael Young, Pressman

“When needing a “DENSE” or “DARK” Black area in your 4-color layout instead of using a “Double Hit” of black ink creating a “5 th Color”, consider using your primary colors as a base or foundation to achieve a richer/deeper Black by creating it with percentages of your primary colors.

Examples:

• For “Neutral” Black create a custom color of 100% Black + 30% each of Yellow, Cyan & Magenta.
• For “Cool” Black create a custom color of 100% Black + 50% Cyan + 15% each of Yellow & Magenta.
• For “Warm” Black create a custom color of 100% Black + 60% Magenta + 20% Yellow + 10% Cyan.”